The madeira islands

The Madeira Islands are a group of volcanic islands located off the coast of Africa, about 430 miles south of the southernmost point in Portugal, and some 280 miles west of Africa. The largest island in the group, Madeira itself, is about 286 square miles, or about the size of the island-city of Singapore.

The islands have been part of Portugal since their discovery in 1419 by explorers sailing under the aegis of Prince Henry the Navigator, who initiated the great age of Portuguese exploration and settlement.

The islands represent a small part of an uplifted tectonic ridge of ocean crust, the Tore-Madeira Ridge, which reaches up from the abyssal plaon of the North Atlantic at 11,500ft depth to the highest paaks on the island of Madeira t some 6,100 ft, for a total relief of 17,600ft above the ocean floor. The geology is oceanic basalt, weathering to magnesium and iron-rich volcanic soils.

The flanks of the central peaks sweep upward from coastal beaches and sea-cliffs, cascading upwards into jagged pinnacles and ravines making the center of the island generally inaccessible. Viticulture is concentrated around the coasts and in the two large amphitheater-shaped agricultural areas facing to the south.

The size of the entire Madeira appellation is a mere 1000 hectares, distributed in small plots. The main wine-growing villages are Câmara de Lobos on the southern coast and São Vincent and Santana, both on the northern coast. The vineyards stretch from the coast to the flanks of the central mountains, supported by stone walls and narrow stone stairs, preventing use of machinery in the vineyards.

Vineyards are traditionally planted in a"Latada" (trellised vine) system where the vines are laid horizontally on wires and suspended from the ground by stakes. After World War II, espalier training was introduced, typically applied on land with gentler slopes. The rich volcanic soils, maritime influence and diverse climatic conditions as well as the Madeira production process give Madeira wines unique characteristics.

The climate of Madeira Island is influenced by breezes out of the northeast almost all year long. Summers are hot and winters generally mild, with significant variety in microclimates based on elevation and exposure. Wine-growing zones have sub-humid and humid to arid climates depending on the coastal influence and altitude.

madeira wines

Madeira wine is a fortified wine produced in the Madeira Islands; different grades may be richly-sweet, lightly-sweet or dry. It has a history dating back to the Age of Exploration when Madeira was a standard port of call for ships heading to the New World or East Indies. To prevent the wine from spoiling, neutral grape spirits were added. However, wine producers of Madeira discovered, when an unsold shipment of wine returned to the islands after a round trip, that the flavor of the wine had been transformed by exposure to heat and movement. Today, Madeira is noted for its unique winemaking process that involves heating the wine and deliberately exposing the wine to some levels of oxidation. The term Madeira has Protected Designation of Origin status in the EU.

Vineyards are held by thousands of small growers, but there are only seven firms producing Madeira wine: Vinhos Barbeito, Blandy’s (The Madeira Wine Company), HM Borges Sucessores, J. Faria & Filhos, Henriques & Henriques, Justino’s, and Pereira d’Oliveira.

grape varieties in madeira

Madeira wine is made from several different grapes, some suited for dry lighter wines, some for sweet wines and some are versatile and used for a range of styles.

Sercial, a white grape introduced during the initial colonization of the islands, produces a light, delicate, brightly acidic wine and is used for dry “Sercial” Madeiras. It’s mainly grown on the north coast between 450 and 600 ft elevation, and on the south side of the island at higher elevations, around 2000-2300 ft.

Terrantez, a rare white grape, is used for semi-dry and semi-sweet wines. The variety is planted near Funchal and in Campenario, a few miles to the west of Funchal. Terrantez Madeiras are highly sought after for their exotic aromatics, but the scarcity of plantings makes them quite rare.

Verdelho, a variety native to the Iberian mainland, produces a balanced medium-bodied wine, generally finished semi-dry to semi-sweet. The variety is grown around 1300ft on the north coast of the island.

Bual (Boal), a white variety known on the mainland as Malvasia Fina, produces a richer, medium sweet wine. Genereally planted between 300 and 450 ft on the south coast.

Malvasia, the first grape brought to the islands shortly after their discovery, is grown on both the north and south sides of the island, produces some of the richest and sweetest grades of Madeira, known as Malmsey. These are lush, complex dessert wines.

Tinta Negra, the only red grape used for Madeira wines, was introduced in the 18th century. It represents the vast majority of Madeira plantings, around 85% of total production. Its small berries are richly flavored and versatile, and Tinta Negra is used to produce the full range of dry to sweet wines.

Bastardo: A sweet red grape, of which very little is now produced on the island, but is occasionally found in some old vintage Madeiras. The grape originated in eastern France where it is known as Trousseau, and is now grown mostly in the Douro river valley in Portugal where it is used in Port wine production.

the production process

Madeira is traditionally produced by the Canteiro process. First, a standard vinification in cask or stainless steel. The wines are then fortified by the addition of pure neutral grape spirit (grape brandy distilled to 96% alcohol). If the brandy is added early in the fermentation process, the residual sugars will create a sweet wine, longer fermentation produces dry wine.

After fortification, the wine is transferred to cask and into lodges where the casks rest on large cantelever structures elevated up near the lodge roof at around 90 to 120 degrees F for a minimum of 3 months. in this warm and humid environment (up to 90% humidity) about 4-5% of the wine is lost to evaporation. This process gently oxidizes the wine and gives Madeira its classic carmel/nutty flavors.

After resting in the greenhouses, the wines are rested for a minimum of 3 months in cask before bottling, and then aged in bottle before release. Wines with no indication of age are aged for a minimum of three years before release, others are age-indicated at 5, 10, or up to 50 years. Single-vintage Madeiras are also produced and released a minimum of five years after harvest.

More modernized wineries use a more controlled process, referred to as the estufa (“oven”) system. The wines are now kept in containers, mainly of stainless steel, which are heated by 'jackets' containing hot water. This enables the wine to be maintained at the required temperature of 115 to 120 degrees F. for a period of three months. Modern estufas can be large, ranging from 20,000 - 100,000 litres. After heating, the wines are allowed to cool down gradually, then tasted for grading and further ageing.

In all its various styles, Madeira is distinguished by a complexity and depth of flavour underpinned by a bright, crisp acidity which prevents the wines from being cloying and leaves the palate feeling refreshed.

grades of madeira

Madeira is produced in a range of styles, related to body, sweetness and age range. Here’s a bit of a guide:

Rainwater: a light, delicate blended Madeira, often made largely of Tinta Negra. It an be made from dry to medium-dry (which is lightly sweet).

Sercial: a light elegant dry Madeira which must contain a minimum of 85% Sercial grape.

Verdelho: a medium bodied Madeira, ranging from medium-dry to medium-sweet, made of a minimum of 85% Verdelho grape.

Boal: a medium bodied Madeira ranging towards the sweeter end of the mid-range. Minimum 85% Boal (Malvasia Fina) grape.

Malmsey: a full rich Madeira generally fully sweet along the lines of a rich tawny Port. Minimum 85% Malvasia grape.

Rainwater 5-year old “Dry”: This Madeira is made from Tinta Negra from various harvests years with a minimum age of 5 years. Harvested from the Estreito de Câmara de Lobos area, on acidic basaltic soils, rich in clay and organic matter. The grapes are de-stemmed and pressed, fermentation off the skins in stainless steel temperature controlled tanks. Fortification by the addition of neutral spirit, followed by ageing in the estufagem process then rested for several months in a mix of barrel and stainless before bottling and bottle ageing prior to release.

Taste & Pairing: Amber, woody and complex aromas of dried fruits, distinct and harmonious with notes of iodine, it is nutty with great body and brilliant acidity. Serve lightly chilled as an aperitif, it goes exceptionally well with smoked salmon or cheese.

Sercial 10-Year Old “Dry”: This is a Sercial from different harvest years and with a mimimum age of 10 years. The grapes are destemmed and the juice separated prior to fermentation in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks. Fermentation is halted by the addition of neutral spirit and the fortified wine then aged in 650lt American oak using the traditional canteiro process until bottling, followed by extensive bottle ageing.

Taste & Pairing: Light amber. Notes of wood with orange iodine, nuts and toast. Well structured and complex in the mouth with complex aromatics . Dense tannins, combined with the dry characteristics of the grape variety, transmit an array of flavors, with nuts and beeswax predominating.

Serve slightly below room temperature as an appetizer wine par excellence, it will keep fresh open for months and will pair well with olives, roasted almonds, smoked fish, fresh goat or sheep cheeses.

Rainwater 5-year old “Medium Dry”: This Madeira is made from Tinta Negra with a minimum of 5 years age after harvest. The grapes are de-stemmed and pressed, fermentation off the skins in controlled temperature tank. Fortification with neutral spirit followed by ageing in the estufagem process with temperatures between 95 ̊ and 115 ̊ F, followed by aging, some in stainless steel tanks and oak barrels. Topaz with bright yellow nuances. Woody aromas that evolved with the aging process with notes of spice.It is a bold wine with hints of seaweed, dried fruits and nuts. Serve lightly chilled as an aperitif, to accompany starters, snacks, soups, cheeses or with nut or coffee based desserts.

Verdelho 10-Year Old “Medium Dry”: This Verdelho is from different harvest years and with an a minimum age of 10 years. After fermentation off the skin in stainless-steel temperature controlled tanks for about 5 days, the fermentation is interrupted by adding neutral spirit. Aged in French and American oak barrels using the traditional canteiro process until bottling.

Taste & Pairing: Clear light amber colour. Fine Verdelho nose with lots of spice notes, pears in brandy, walnuts, tobacco, and vanilla. Elegant on the palate a lighter style with lovely harmony and refreshing acidity. Long, ethereal ending.

Serve slightly cool as a great aperitif which goes well with olives, toasted almonds and dried fruits. Also a good companion for consommé, custards with cream onion soup or both sweet and savory custards. Amazing with serrano ham or smoked game, stuffed mushrooms or foie gras.