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“Artisanal winemaking is all about the vineyard. Wines from this vineyard taste like they do because the climate is a certain way, the fog and wind are a certain way, because the bushes that surround the vines are endemic to that place.”
Bruliam Wines
Kerith Overstreet is a one-woman wine whirlwind. As the visioneer, vineyard manager, winemaker, sales & marketing director, and tasting room sommelier for her boutique winery, she is the brains and brawn behind some of Sonoma’s finest wines, from a selection of truly iconic vineyards.
“You can be whatever you want... after medical school.”
Kerith took that advice seriously, eventually attending the Cornell, then University of Rochester Medical School, gaining her MD and specializing in surgical pathology, leading to a residency at UCSD and a successful career in medicine, treating patients and authoring research papers such as Primary anaplastic glio-neuronal tumor of the pineal gland: a new type of pineal neoplasm? and others. In short, Kerith is no slouch, and could’ve easliy stayed in medicine for a long and fulfilling career.
But, the wine bug bit. Hard. And Kerith, supported by her husband Brian and her three children, is now the force behind Bruliam Wines, named for Kerith & Brian’s three children, Bruno, Lily and Amelia.
The Vineyards
Like many boutique winemakers in California, Kerith doesn’t own all of her fruit sources. They own one, and in addition, she works with some of the finest vineyards in Sonoma County and and in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County. Her own vineyard, purchased in 2012, is the Torrey Hill Vineyard in the Russian River AVA. It was planted in the 50’s or 60’s and produces superb quality, old-vine Martini Clone and 667 fruit. She’s worked with the proprietors of the Gaps Crown Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap since 2009, and stalked Mike and Steve Sangiacamo for a year or more before finally being allowed to purchase some of the superb fruit from their eponymous vineyard. In the Santa Lucia Highlands, Kerith gets fruit from the Soberanes Vineyard, a joint partnership between famed growers Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. Recently Kerith has begun crafting a Burgundy-styled Chardonnay created from fruit sourced at Charlie Heinz’s ranch out on the Sonoma Coast.
“I chose to align myself with iconic vineyards and longtime growers whose reputation for excellence exceeded my own. ”
Kerith with assistant winemakers Lily, Ameria and Bruno
Kerith is hands-on in the vineyards and in the cellar, deeply engaged in every aspect of making her wines. Her daughters help out in the vineyard, and son Bruno has been known to climb into a wooden vat and foot-tread the grapes!
“Oh, did we mention the part about hand harvesting? At midnight? By Raven-haired, Pre-Raphaelite virgins, harvesting beneath the brave o’erhanging firmament, that majestical roof fretted with golden fire and a canopy of sparkling stars? ”
“Monitoring fermentation is a lot like doing rounds with patients. Every morning during harvest, the first thing I do is check on all my tanks.... In the afternoon, you do the same thing all over again. You make rounds twice a day.”
The Wines
Heinz Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast): This chardonnay sparkles with cool climate terroir. Yellow-gold and brimming with citrus-ness, this chardonnay marries lemon, tangerine, and lime zest dotted with caramel and delicate sprinkles of nutmeg and allspice. This being Charlie’s fruit, the acid zips and minerality balances the creamy texture.
Rose of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County): The rosé of pinot noir is a fetching, pale pink beauty with confectionary aromatic notes and pleasing “mélange de fruits” character. White strawberry, gooseberry, and plenty of tangerine/pink grapefruit enliven the palate. TEasy drinking, as always, but versatile too, this rose will be your go-to vino for sunny days.
Torrey Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley): from old vines, planted in the 1960s to the Martini clone, on an estate vineyard of just under an acre. Notes of black cherries, juicy raspberries, and plums hop from the glass, leading to hints of violets and dark chocolate. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with bold black berry flavors framed by plush tannins and seamless freshness, finishing on a lingering anise note. This is classic Russian River Valley.
Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap): Rich, opulent, and structured, this pinot wears the stylings of Gap’s Crown with luscious pizzaz. The core is a boysenberry, raspberry, blueberry whirl that some call Marionberry. This wine displays concentration, structure, and depth. Hints of violet, dried potpourri, and freshly ground black pepper bring balance to the sumptuous triple berry vibe.
Sangiacamo Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap): The Sangiacomo wins the palate prize with an ultra-smooth and oh-so-long finish that lasts forever (well, nothing lasts forever, but this is darn close). Wild strawberry and sour cherry are balanced by dried thyme and forest floor. The palate pops with juicy cranberries and pomegranate that reflect the cool-climate and coastal fog. This is terroir you can taste.
Nightwing Vineyard Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap): Planted in 2017, perched at 1200 feet elevation along the Eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap AVA, these vines endure punishing winds resulting in low yields, thick skins, and intense concentration. These grapes are bathed by the Petaluma Gap’s morning fog and a persistent afternoon breezes. The name Nightwing evokes the nocturnal creatures, both avian and insect, that bring buzzing biodiversity to the vineyard at sunset. The name is also a nod to property owner Vernon Morelli, a retired WWII pilot who built a landing strip there, a quirky fact that predates vineyard development. Kerith believes that this vineyard has the potential to equal and even eclipse some of the finest vineyards in the region. Dark cherry, raspberry coulis, and purplefleshed plum are gift-wrapped in baking spices like mace and nutmeg. Medium bodied on the palate, a pop of cherry plays with hints of garrigue, sandalwood and whiff of cocoa. Lively acidity provides gentle lift that finishes with soft tannins, a landing strip for a smooth and long. This vineyard is a special site indeed!
Soberanes Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands): Structured and fuller bodied showcasing a blackberry/raspberry core studded with Asian five spice blend brings aromatic intensity and a rich palate to the 2022 Soberanes. Ever expressive of site, this bottling showcases the classic SLH trio of dark fruits, sweet clove, and earthy notes. Smooth and delicious and a great example of the AVA.
Rockpile Zinfandel (Rockpile AVA, Sonoma County: A raspberry-blueberry crumble describes this zin loaded with red and blue fruits, studded with cinnamon stick, allspice, and clove. There are hints of dark fleshed plum embedded with fine grain tannins and a backbone of acidity that makes this zin both bright, lush, and food friendly. Glockner-Turner Ranch will satisfy your cravings for something rich and mouth-watering. And yeah, it’s Zin made by a Pinot girl! For more info on the Rockpile AVA’s unique terroir and climate, click here.
Late-Harvest Viognier (Robert Young Vineyard, Alexander Valley): Intoxicatingly perfumed, this sweet dessert wine explodes with orange blossoms, white peach, and apricots. Think orange sherbet studded with candied citrus rind and whispers of ginger and cardamom. It’s THAT yummy. Since that lovely sweetness is balanced by acid, don’t be shy about pairing this beauty alongside your favorite dessert, from cheeses to tarts.
“Nobody comes back from their honeymoon or vacation waxing poetic about the vodka.”
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Doctor & Vintner: An Interview with Kerith Overstreet (Rochester Review: Fall 2019)
The Art & Science of Wine: An Interview with Kerith Overstreet (U Rochester Alumni Magazine, Nov 2022
Q&A with Kerith at petalumagap.com
Q&A with Kerith at santaluciahighlands.com
Mother Of Three Leaves Career In Medicine To Become California Winemaker (Forbes Magazine, June 2022)