The petaluma gap

Originally part of the vast Sonoma Coast appellation, the Gap straddles the border between Marin County to the south and Sonoma County to the north. The Gap itself is a low saddle in the Coast Ranges, allowing cool pacific breezes to waft landward into the San Pablo Bay area.

Established in 2018, the AVA includes just over 200,000 acres, of which about 4,000 are planted to vines. Thanks to the cooling effect of the moisture-laden pacific breezes, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay predominate, with a touch of Syrah.

The climate allows the fruit to hang later in the season without over-ripening, resulting in perfect phenolic ripeness while keeping the potential alcohol in bounds. The steady breeze lifts the fog by late morning, drying the grapes, and preventing any sort of mildew or fungus in the vineyards. The cooling breezes also help thicken the skins of the grapes, which is particularly important for Pinot Noir; giving it better concentration and structure.

Three marquee vineyards are found within the Petaluma Gap: Roberts Road Vineyard, owned and farmed by the Sangiacomo family; Sun Chase Vineyard, owned by Alex Guarachi of Guarachi Family Wines; and Gap’s Crown Vineyard, owned by Bill Price of Three Sticks Wines. All sell grapes to many producers and are planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

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A summary review of the Gap’s Crown Vineyard

stephane vivier

A Burgundian by birth and upbringing, Stephane grew up in Meloisey, a village of about 300 in the canton of Ladoix-Serrigny, near the ancient Burgundian capital of Beaune. There, Stephane was first introduced to wine and winemaking at the feet of an elderly neighbor whose family had been making wine for centuries.

After obtaining degrees in viticulture and enology from Université de Bourgogne in Dijon, Stephane worked in Switzerland, Sonoma and New Zealand. There, he discovered the difference between Old World and New World winemaking. The vineyards were young, as were the winemakers, giving free rein for them to put their own stamp on the wines they crafted.

Returning to Napa, in 2002 Stephane joined Hyde de Villaine as winemaker. HdV is a joint venture between Aubert de Villaine, one of France’s most respected vignerons and part owner of the famed Domaine de la Romanee-Conti; and their cousins the Hyde family, which has deep roots in Napa.

While at HdV, Stephane met his future wife Dana Sexton, who got the “wine bug” while in college in Walla Walla Washington, then went on to a year at La Sorbonne in Paris where she refined both her French tongue and palate before returning to UC-Davis for post-grad study in Finance & International Management, then landed a job at an investment management company that specialized in top-flight vineyards. Shortly after that she and Stephane met and they quickly decided to become business, life, and marital partners. Today, Stephane and Dana, and their two kids Lucile and Armand live and breathe the wines of Sonoma County, and have developed a cult following for their compelling, Burgundian Pinot Noirs.

Today, Vivier is one of the United States’ most noted practitioners of the art of Pinot Noir. To Stéphane, the best winemaker is one that largely keeps his hands to himself, allowing the alchemy of nature to do what it does best. He thinks of himself as a lazy winemaker, in the best sense that the wine is made in the vineyard and the winemakers best skill is staying out of the way of the fruit’s expression in the cellar.

the wines

Chardonnay “Sonoma Coast”: Sourced from the Flocchini Vineyard, planted to Wente Selection Chardonnay originating from Meursault and brought to California in the 1890’s. The vineyard is a cool, windy site on shallow rocky clay soil, where cool marine breezes sweep the hillsides of morning fog Vivier’s parcel is usually harvested first week of September. Stylistically a California cousin to Meursault, this wine is fresh, crisp with layers of white fruit and apricot. Focused and precise, this generous wine imparts flavors of citrus, pear and a whisper of clove. 50 cases produced.

Pinot Noir “Sonoma Coast”: Vivier pulled some serious strings to make this wine, sourcing fruit from three top vineyards in the Petaluma Gap, including the high-elevation van der Kamp Vineyard, one of California’s oldest Pinot sites, as well Gap’s Crown, which supplies single-site grapes to Patz & Hall, Sojourn, Dutton-Goldfield, and numerous other Sonoma Pinot icons. The wine has earned placements on the list at The French Laundry as well as Eleven Madison Park, and is a truly stellar example of just how Burgundian a Gap Pinot can be. The nose is an earthy mix of Asian spice, violet and rose petals mixed with black cherry and mocha—so characteristic of our best vintages. On the palate, the same complexity of flavors returns with layers of delicate red fruit, floral notes and touches of a gentle earthiness and minerality. The texture of the wine is intricate and airy, still bringing power and density on the finish.

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An interview with Stephane Vivier

Pinot Noir Rose “Sonoma Coast”: Hailing from the blustery Petaluma Gap region of the Sonoma Coast, then aged and fermented in stainless steel, this rosé is refreshingly lively with bright floral notes and a beguiling pinky-coral hue. The floral result offers notes of citrus fruit and plum, and a fine, harmonious nose. Red fruit brings an almost flinty power to the palate, while the structure is fresh and sophisticated with concentration at its core. Served by the glass at MOMA SF, Mustards, and Insitu – but it’s just as good in your own backyard for a sunny lunch, alfresco dinner or an apéritif anytime.

Pinot Noir “Gap’s Crown Vineyard”: Gap’s Crown, tucked on the western hillside of Sonoma Mountain, is fanned by the cool ocean breezes that push through the Petaluma Gap. This is a favorite of Stéphane because of the long growing season, rocky soil and inhospitable weather. The soils here are Toomes Complex, based on diverse decomposed volcanics relatively poor in silica with some loam admixed. This creates an extremely well-drained soil, especially here near the top of the Gap. Floral, subtle and minerally perfumed aromas: light spice, violet, and vibrant red fruits loft on the perfect frame giving way to a dense, elegant the palate. Racy yet elegant, it shows texture and refinement with fresh raspberry, floral elements with violet, rose petals and spice underneath. Superb.