the cote de sezanne

The Cote de Sezanne lies to the southwest of Champagne’s Cote des Blancs and is geologically a continuation of the same chalks that make both regions ideal for planting Chardonnay. There are some 3650 acres of vineyard spread across 12 small villages and some 740 individual growers, most with tiny family plots of vineyard. All 12 are classed as “Autres Crus” - there are no Premier Cru or Grand Cru villages in the Sezanne. Of the major Houses, only Billecart-Salmon and Moet & Chandon have holdings in the Sezanne.

Climate and Terroir

The climate of the Sezanne is the same is that of the Champagne region generally- fully continental with hot, dry summers and cold snowy winters. Wine writer Oz Clarke once referred to the region as “a cold, windswept treeless prairie.” The vineyards are gently rolling and face to the southeast. That exposure gives it some of the region’s best positioning for ripening.

The soils consist of a thin layer of topsoil overlaying a mix of very heterogenous subsoils, with varying amounts of clay, sand and marl. Below that are several meters of decomposed chalks, grading downward into chalk bedrock. The chalks are a bit more clay rich here relative to the Cote des Blancs, imparting a bit more minerality to the wines.

Millesime 2009 is of course a single-vintage Champagne, produced from 93% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Noir. Vineyards of clay and chalk soil, vines averageing 45 years. This wine spends 156 months (yes, 13 years) on its lees before degorgement, and is bottled as an extra-brut with 5g/l dosage. Elegant and toasted, with a long precise finish.

Autolyse Noirs et Blancs is a Pinot Noir rich blend of 86% Pinot Noir and 14% Chardonnay, with the Pinot grown on slightly more clay-rich soils. The base wine is currently 2008, with 12% reserve wines for additional depth and complexity. Vinified in oak and stainless, partial malolactic fermentation and then left to rest for a whopping 168 months (14 years) on its lees before degorgement and dosage to a brut level of 8g/l. Massive, rich and loaded with brioche notes.

Le Brun de neuville

Le Brun de Neuville Established in 1963 by 26 family growers who united to pool resources and bottle their own wines in the Cotes de Sezanne rather than selling off their fruit to the great Houses in Reims and Epernay. Today, the group has grown to 170 growers who have all committed to sustainable practices and are all in various stages of conversion to organic farming. No pesticides or herbicides are used on any of the growers’ vineyards.

Based in the village of Bethon and spanning all 12 crus, 90% of their vines are Chardonnay, with 10% Pinot Noir. No Meunier is used. Cellarmaster Damien Champy and his team craft the wines to show the full range of expression of Chardonnay-based Champagnes.

The Wines

Le Brun de Neuville produces 3 lines of Champagnes. The “Cote” line, named of coursse for their location on the Cote de Sezanne; their Autolyse line, produced from extended ageing on the lees after the second fermentation, and their Millesime wines.

Cote Blanche (not shown) is a Blanc de Blancs Champagne, 100% Chardonnay, from a blend of crus. Average age is 45 years, with south-eastern exposure on chalk-clay soils. Currently 2020 base wine with 52% reserve wines. Vinified in stainless with a touch of oak (8%), partial malolactic fermentation. 30 months on its lees, then finished with as a brut with 9g/l dosage. Precise and elegant, this is Le Brun de Neuville’s signature cuvee.

Extra Blanc is a Blanc de Blancs Champagne produced from 100% Chardonnay vines, 45 years old and planted with south-eastern exposure on chalk/clay soils. Currently 2019 base wine with 26% reserve wines. Vinified in a mix of stainless and oak (12%), with no malolactic fermentation. 36 months on its lees, then Finished as an extra-brut, with 3g/l dosage. Superbly elegant with a touch of tropical fruit that is a hallmark of the Sezanne.

Cote Brute is a blend of Chardonnay (68%) and Pinot Noir (32%) from vineyards averaging 45 years old on chalk/clay soils. Currently 2018 base with 23% reserve wines. Vinified in a mix of stainless and oak with partial malolactic fermentation. 48 months on its lees, then bottled as a dry brut with 7g/l dosage. Full and creamy with touches of tropical fruit.

Cote Rosee is a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 32% Pinot Noir and 20% still red Pinot for color and depth of flavor, a practice allowed for rose wines only in Champagne. Currently 2017 base wine with 50% reserve wines. Vinified in stainless, with partial malolactic fermentation. 60 months on its lees, then finished as a dry brut with 7g/l dosage. Rich and scented with notes of red fruit and spring flowers.