BIERZO

Located just off the “shoulder” of Portugal, Bierzo is a mountainous region with viticultural history dating back thousands of years. The primary red variety used in the wines of Bierzo is Mencia, which produces fragrant, structured wines of great depth and finesse.

Bierzo takes its name from the pre-Roman settlement of Bergidum, first mentioned by Pliny the Elder in connection with the region’s gold mines. The district hosted the Roman world’s most important gold mine, and largest open-pit mine. Grapes and other agricultural innovations were introduced by the Romans, and the main phase of viticultural expansion was during the High Middle Ages under the monasteries. The region’s viticulture was nearly wiped out by phylloxera in the 19th century, but recovered sufficiently that Bierzo was recognized as a Denominacion de Origen in 1989.

Today the region is famed for its deep reds of Mencia and for whites produced largely from Godello, both grown on acidic, low-nutrient quartz/slate soils. The family produces 5 cuvees of reds as well as several whites, all of which are critically acclaimed as some of the best in Bierzo.

The DenOminacion

The Bierzo Denominacion de Origen (DO) was first established in 1989 with revisions in 2011 and significant further revisions approved in 2019. The district, located in northwest Spain, sits in a unique intermontane basin at high elevations in a highly localized climate transitional between the coastal temperate/humid climate and the continental drier zone. Diurnal and seasonal temperature variation is quite high. The DO rests on soils of decomposed sedimentary rocks with a relatively low pH. The DO contains about 13,000 acres of vineyard, planted to about half red and half white, and ownership is parceled out across some 5,000 individual growers. Because of the fragmented nature of the holdings, most fruit is sold to cooperatives.

The rich varietal diversity found in Galicia is due in large part to the famous Camino de Santiago, a pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James in the town of Santiago de Compostela, the earliest references to which date back to the 9th century. The monks who made the journey would often carry vine cuttings from their home regions in their packs to offer as gifts to the Spanish monasteries that would put them up along the way. This is why Trousseau, a grape that originated in France’s Jura, is found throughout northwestern Spain. Depending on the particular region (and often on the person you are talking to), the grape is known variously as Bastardo, María Ordoñez, Domingo Pérez, Merenzao, Godello Tinto and Verdejo Negro, but ampelographic studies have shown it to be genetically identical to France’s Trousseau. Other red grapes found scattered around the old vineyards of Bierzo include Sousón, Alicante Bouschet, Brancellao and Caiñ.

DO Bierzo Reds were originally limited to Mencia and Alicante Bouchet (aka Garnacha Tintorera), but as of the 2019 revisions to the DO, it now allows Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera, Merenzao and Estaladiña for the red wines; and Doña Blanca (syn. Malvasía Castellana), Godello, Malvasía Riojana (syn. Alarije, Rojal) and Palomino for the whites. Mencia and Godello, respectively, still dominate though and are considered the primary varieties for the district.

As of the 2019 revisions, Bierzo DO now recognizes different degrees of oak aging as follow:

Unoaked (joven) red wine

First or second year wine made with at least 85% of the Mencia and Garnacha Tintorera varieties, Estaladiña and/or Merenzao. The rest by any of the authorized varieties. Characterized by their intense color and velvety taste.

Crianza red wine

Aging process must be at least of two years which must stay a minimum of six months in oak barrels of less than 330 liters.

Reserva red wine

Aging process must be at least of three years which must stay a minimum of twelve months in oak barrels of less than 330 liters. 

White and rosé wines aging six months in oak and eighteen months in bottle.

Gran Reserva red wine

Aging process must be at least of five years which must stay a minimum of eighteen months in oak barrels of less than 330 liters and the remaining period in the bottle.

Raul Perez & Castro Ventosa

Atop the hill overlooking the village of Valtuille de Abajo lies the ancient Roman fortification of the Castro Ventosa- the Castle of the Winds. Since 1752, the Perez family has owned and farmed vineyards around the ancient ruin, and has taken its name for their vineyard domain. With about 195 acres under cultivation, the Perez family is the most important grower and winemaker in the region. While the wines have been spectacular for generations, since 2018 the winemaking has been largely under the guidance of Raul’s son Gabriel, whose deft winemaking has resulted in wines of even greater finesse, delicacy and brilliance. Farming and winemaking are completely organic, as they have been for over 270 years.

The Wines

Though all the red wines Raúl produces in the Bierzo D.O. are labelled as 100% Mencía, some may contain significant quantities of other historic local grapes, largely planted decades or even centuries ago as field blends.

Bierzo, Godello, “El Castro de Valtuille”: Grown in clay soils around 1800ft. Fermented in a combination of barrique and clay amphorae with a flor cap, then partially barrel-aged, this exotic wine bridges the styles of Burgundy with Fino sherry.

Bierzo, Godello, “Valtuille”: Produced in tiny quantity from ancient, pre-phyllozera vines. More elegant and refined than the El Castro Godello, with an intense nose of balsam and pollen… 75 cases produced annually.

Bierzo, Mencia Joven (rabbit label): Produced from some of the rare sandy/chalky soils in the region at elevations from 1700-2000ft. 40-60 year old vines. Vinified in stainless and bottled with no oak treatment. Brilliant and juicy.

Bierzo, Mencia “Valtuille” (fortress label): Produced from vineyards with a mixture of clay, sand and gravel at elevations around 1900ft. 75-year-old vines. Fermented then matured in oak barriques for 14 months. Filled with deep berry fruit, and perfect with duck or game dishes. 750 cases produced annually.

Bierzo, Mencia Crianza “El Castro de Valtuille”: Produced from the the same vineyards as the Joven, but with about a year of 2nd through 4th year Burgundy oak to smooth it out and add a bit more depth and velvety mouthfeel. 600 cases annual for the US market, plus some production that stays in Europe.

Vino de Villa: a blend of the pre-phylloxera single vineyard sites. Serious with great volume and depth. Great texture, balance and well integrated moderate alcohol. Special wine and one of the winery’s greatest values in top-level wine.

the single-vineyard wines

These wines, the creme de la creme of Bierzo, are produced in tiny quantites, typically a few hundred cases per wine per year. These critically-acclaimed wines are highly restricted and only intermittently available.

Rapolao: This single vineyard wine comes from a celebrated plot of 3.5 hectares which is shared between 20 owners. Soils are clay, rich in organic matter, it has 100 year old + vines and very low yields. Altitude is about 1900ft above sea level. It is one of the coolest parajes in Valtuille and gets the sun an hour after the rest of the village vineyards, giving it long hangtimes and great ripeness with perfect acidity. The wine is approximately 85% Mencia, 10% Alicante and 5% other varieties.

Villegas: Villegas is one of the vineyards Perez’ finest vineyards. Located in Valtuille de Abajo, it has a nascent orientation to the south at 1800ft elevation, and peculiar soils for the area- while most of Bierzo has clay-rich soils, those of Villegas are very sandy. the vineyard, planted in 1890, is mostly Mencia with some Garnacha Tintorera and a bit of Bastardo. The exposure and the lightness of the soils produces a wine of elegance and finesse. 85% Mencia, 10% Alicante, 5% other varieties.

Cova de la Raposa: This single vineyard wine comes from a south facing half-acre parcel on sandy soil at the top of La Cova de la Raposa vineyard. It has 100 year old + vines and very low yields, some plants only produce two bunches. Super-concentrated and yet still with great elegance. 85% Mencia, 10% Alicante, 5% other varieties

Cepas Centenarias: Made from the Perez family’s oldest and most prized vineyards, two east facing plots with clay soil in the Villegas zone, which include 100 year-old vines and a portion of pre-phylloxera vines. Yields are low, barely reaching four bunches per vine. The blend is 85% Mencia, 8% Alicante, 2% Bastardo and 5% other varieties

La Vitoriana: From a tiny little folded pocket vineyard that faces both north and south, that the Perez family reveres as the greatest site in Valtuille. Also first planted c.1890, this is classified as a Grand Cru in the new DO regulations. They have never released this wine commercially before, even though they have made one barrel each year for several years.